by Jackie Jacobsen
for Debonaire Magazine
Montreal in late autumn may not be on the “must see” list of most tour books, which extol the city’s summertime festival culture and pulsating nightlife on every day of the week. In October, the famed outdoor cafes have begun to recede from the sidewalks, and the temperatures prepare for the winter season as they plunge sharply at nightfall.
But for those looking for the true Montrealers’ art de vivre, autumn is a prime occasion. The throngs of tourists have returned to their southern homes, and Quebeckers once again reclaim the streets as they return from their summer holidays. The crisp fall air, a welcome reprieve from the stifling humidity of the Montreal summer, propels the crowds to horde the city streets, eager to enjoy the last of the good weather.
The spirit of Montreal, however, continues going strong well into the autumn months. Bars and clubs remain crowded even at the lowest of temperatures, while the city’s restaurateurs and jazz enthusiasts remain active despite the cold weather. Centuries of weathering extreme temperatures have left Montrealers with a hardiness, and a clear determination to enjoy the fruits of their city, that amaze visitors.
WHERE TO STAY For a real taste of Canadian luxury, the Fairmont Queen Elizabeth (900 Rene Levesque Blvd. W.; 514-861-3511; http://www.fairmont.com/queenelizabeth) is the epitome of Montreal style. Situated at the very heart of downtown, it has direct connections to Rue McGill and the famed “underground city” shopping complex. Rooms start at $279 (CAD) and include access to three restaurants, ranging from casual to haute couture dining.
For the more frugal traveler, there is any number of familiar chains from which to choose. The Marriott Residence Inn, on Rue Peel, provides the best value for your money, as suites are expansive and come equipped with kitchenettes (2045 Peel Street; 514-982-6064; www.residenceinn-mtl.com). Offering free wiresless high-speed Internet access and a free “hot and cold” breakfast buffet, the Residence Inn is a favorite hotel of most travelers. Four Points Sheraton (475 Sherbrooke Street West; 514-842-3961) and the Delta Montreal Hotel (475 President Kennedy Avenue; 514-286-1986; www.deltamontreal.com) are also located downtown and occasionally have discounted fares.
WHERE TO EAT Montreal has nearly 3,000 restaurants, an astounding figure considering its small population (1.5 million). Nearly every ethnic group is represented among this sea of gastronomic luxury. Here are some hidden gems:
Zen Ya Hidden in an office building on St. Catherine’s Street (486 St. Catherine’s Street, 2nd Floor; 514-904-1363), few newcomers are lucky enough to discover the rich Eastern aura and sumptuous fare of this Japanese restaurant. Sushi options are plentiful, while a selection for the non-sushi enthusiasts is diverse.
Café El Dorado Located in “The Plateau,” a Montreal neighborhood claimed by students, artists, and musicians, El Dorado exudes a laid-back charm to accompany its homestyle menu, filled with comfort food choices and local Quebec staples, including the infamous poutine (fries with gravy and cheese curds). Come for breakfast, which is served until 3 pm. (921 rue Mont-Royal Est; 514-598-8282; www.cafeeldorado.ca)
BYOW Brasseries For a real taste of Quebec cuisine, brasseries like Alexandre (1454 Peel Street; 514-288-5105), Au Vieux Duluth (351 Duluth Est; 514-842-5390, www.auvieuxduluth.ca), and L’Academie (4051 rue St. Denis; 514-849-2249)are excellent choices. Each offers an array of brochette dishes – overloaded plates of rice, meat, gravy and the ever-present cheese curds. “BYOW” refers to “Bring Your Own Wine,” so remember to pick up a bottle at the SAQ (government-operated located stores, located on nearly every corner) or the local dépanneur.
MUST SEE
The Magic of Lanterns Every September and October, the Montreal Botanical Garden creates a lantern show in its Chinese Garden. Using hand-crafted artworks that are lit every night, the Botanical Garden celebrates a centuries-old Chinese tradition while illuminating the Quebec darkness. The Park is open until 9 pm, and entrance fees range from $6 to $13. (http://www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/jardin/en/menu.htm)
WHAT TO DO AT NIGHT
Jazz Bars The jazz scene continues long after the end of the famous International Jazz Fest, in two landmark locations. Le Maison de Jazz, originally Biddle’s, sports a 1920s- décor, with overly ornate glass chandeliers and deep red plush mahogany chairs reminisce of Prohibition-era speakeasies. Many of Montreal’s most famous jazz musicians, including Oscar Peterson and Michelle Sweeney, have been known to perform here regularly. Cover charge during showtime is $5, while food and drink are available for a moderate price. (2060 Aylmer; 514-842-8656, www.houseofjazz.ca)
Upstairs For a more demure jazz evening, head to Upstairs (located downstairs) just off of Crescent Street (1254 MacKay; 514-931-6808; www.upstairsjazz.com). Upstairs offers a much more intimate evening, with fewer tables and close proximity to the jazz performers. Dinners cost around $10, and drinks are inexpensive. Be sure to catch Dawn Taylor Watson and Kevin Dean.
Crescent Street/St. Laurent Bars and Clubs Montreal sports two major hubs of nighttime haunts, to fit nearly all preferences. On Crescent, between Sherbrooke and Rene-Levesque, establishments run the gamut, and cater to students (Sir Winnie’s and Mad Hatter) to genteel sophisticates (Newtown and Pino) to Celtic paradise (Hurley’s and Brutopia). St. Laurent, known as “The Main” that separates English Montreal from French Montreal, offers dozens of nightlife choices. The best bars are the Go Go Bar, with its celebrated martini varieties; Laika, an industrial space converted into urban chic; and Rouge, a 2-floor club for the over-25 club.
WHERE TO SHOP
As the sister city of Paris, it’s no wonder Montreal is an oasis of high-line designers and fashion boutiques. Walking on east on St. Cat’s from Avenue du Parc, there are five department stores through which to peruse – Les Ailes de la Mode (Wings of Fashion), La Baie (Hudson Bay Company), Simon’s, Ogilvie’s, and Holt Renfrew. For those seeking discounts, La Baie and Les Ailes offer the best selection. Simon’s is quickly becoming the centre for affordable Montreal fashion, while Ogilvie’s and Holt Renfrew cater to very rich clientele. Specialty boutiques are found throughout the length of St. Cat’s – Guess and Mexx both have stores here, alongside more local gems like Jacob’s, Le Garage, and Parasuco.
FREE ATTRACTIONS
Old Part/Vieux Montreal Head to the river to Jacques Cartier Square to enjoy a vision of Old Montreal, with its cobbled streets and great riverfront views. Bicycles and skates are still available to rent, while restaurants flank both sides of the square.
Mont Royal Park Designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, whose other landscape work includes Central Park, Mont Royal offers unbelievable views of the city, as well as an opportunity to become acquainted with Quebec’s natural side. Head to the chalet to take incredible pictures, and also walk around the Croix sur le Mont (Cross on the Mountain) that is visible from nearly every point in Montreal.
Cathedrals Mark Twain once said, “You can’t throw a rock in Montreal without hitting stained glass.” Ornate churches are prolific throughout downtown, and are worth a look. Mary, Queen of the World, is an exact one-quarter replica of St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, while Christ Church Cathedral, on St. Catherine’s and Parc, offers a more modern spiritual experience. St. James United Church on St. Catherine’s, has recently removed the commercial storefronts blocking its front entrance, exposing its decorative entranceway
HOW TO GET THERE
From New York, a car trip to Montreal takes around 6 hours, not counting time spent at customs. Daily trains are available from Amtrak, but these usually take 10-12 hours to arrive. Flights to Montreal are only 45 minutes long. Air Canada and Delta Airlines run shuttles (read: 12-seaters) from NY to Montreal airports (ranging from $150 and above for one-way flights). WestJet, a Canadian discount airline, will soon be providing flights from JFK to Trudeau airport in Montreal, costing less than $200 round trip.
HOW TO GET AROUND
Montreal is a pedestrian city, with the bulk of its downtown attractions within a five-mile radius. When traveling to the outer edges of the city, the metro system is easily accessible throughout downtown. Consisting of just four lines, it is nearly impossible to get lost. Taxis are also plentiful throughout town.
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